Israeli soldiers returning from the front in Lebanon talk of battling an intelligent, prepared and ruthless guerrilla army whose fighters don't seem to fear death.

The troops describe Hizballah guerrillas hiding among civilians and in underground bunkers two or three stories deep -- evidence, they say, that Hizballah has been planning this battle for many years.

"It's hard to beat them," one soldier said. "They're not afraid of anything."

The soldiers, most of whom declined to give their names under orders from superiors, described exchanges of gunfire in between houses on village streets, with Hizballah rebels sometimes popping out of bushes to fire Kalashnikov rifles, rocket-propelled grenades and anti-tank missiles.

The troops' comments underscored the enormous challenges Israel faces as it seeks to neutralize Hizballah, which captured two Israeli soldiers in a cross-border raid July 12, provoking a fierce Israeli response.

Despite Israel's enormous firepower, which already has killed 380 Lebanese, some military analysts say the fighting isn't going particularly well for the Jewish nation. It has been unable to push the guerrillas back significantly or stop hundreds of their rockets from slamming into northern Israel.

For the past few days, Israel has been fighting for control of the tiny southern Lebanese village of Maroun al-Ras, located on a hilltop less than 500 yards across the border. The army said it had taken the village, but officers at the scene confirmed there was still fighting to do.

"They're not fighting like we thought they would," one soldier said of Hizballah. "They're fighting harder. They're good on their own ground."

One soldier said the guerrillas wore olive green army uniforms "to confuse us" because Israelis wear the same. Others said Hizballah members hid underground in reinforced bunkers until they thought it safe to come out and attack.

"It will take the summer to beat them," said Michael Sidorenko, 21. "They're not normal soldiers, you know. They're guerrillas. They're very smart."

BY BENJAMIN HARVEY
ASSOCIATED PRESS